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Architect lamp replacement springs11/7/2023 Than you have to make this sum equal to the potential energy provided by the springs (considering you have the value of the spring's constants). To achieve that, you have to sum the potential energies of all the links of your mechanism (the potential energy would then depend on the weight of the links, the weight of the lamp, the lenght of the links, the position of the center of gravity of the links and therefore, the angles of each of the links). It means that when a link of your mechanism goes up, it gains gravitational potential energy, so it has to loose some potential energy from the springs on the same amount. The idea behind it is to make constant the potential energy of the whole system. I kinda how to make that kind of calculation. You also have to remember that the lamp cord will go between your bars and further restrict the range of motion. In retrospect I would increase the space between the bars - the more space, the more feely the bars can move and the more range of motion the lamp will have. For the middle brace one of the bar holes is enlarged, for the bottom brace a new hole is drilled. The middle and bottom braces require 1/4" holes that will mount the hinges which will be covered later. The middle brace requires the most thought - both sets of bars meet here and need to rotate without hitting each other. Whatever space you set between the bars for the top brace will be repeated with the middle and bottom braces - for instance, a distance of 1.5" between the first set of bars will be repeated for the second set. Note that on the bottom brace one bar is set lower than the other. The bottom brace is just a rectangle with one rounded edge. The middle brace is an irregular quadrilateral. The top brace is just an equilateral triangle. The design of the braces is semi arbitrary - what is important is that there is enough room for the metal bars to rotate without interfering with each other. I based the lamp design off of a metal architect lamp similar to the one above. Finish of choice: I used 50/50 tung oil and mineral spirits Minimal Tools: Drill press *Jig saw sander *a band saw would be better I got wing nuts for the lamp shade mount. Lamp wire and socket: you can find this at any hardware store Machine screws, washers, nuts: I used 6-32 machine screws 1.25" - 1.5" long. Bottom turn knob socket: I found mine in a specialty lighting store for 8-9 dollars, you can also buy online. A lot of trial and error is figuring out the right amount of tension for the springs, more on this later. Springs: (optional) You can find springs at any hardware store. Look for something 5-7" for a classic looking desk lamp. Amazon warehouse has some good deals on slightly damaged goods (I got the copper shades for 15-20 dollars). I had the most luck searching for pendant lamps to match the look I was going for. Wooden dowels: I used 1/4" and 1/2" Lamp shade: I found mine from amazon and ebay. You also need a wooden dowel (I used 0.5" oak) to connect the lamp to the base. I used 8 - 9" diameter circles cut out of 3/4" cherry. Wood for the base: Depending on the size and weight of your lamp, you'll need a wide base. Plywood would also work (and has the advantage of being stronger). I used quite a bit, but in retrospect that was probably because I messed up a lot. Wood for the supports: I used 1/4" red oak, the kind you can buy at home depot. You need a few extra inches for the lamp shade mount and base. Bars should be square (I used 0.5" x 0.5" and 5/8" x 5/8" for two separate lamps). Materials: Wood for the bars: You need 4 pieces cut the same length.
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